Eastern Mojave Vegetation
| Field Notes (Continued) |
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Tom Schweich |
Topics in this Article: 1800s 1900s 1910s 1920s 1930s 1940s 1950s 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990 1991 1992 1993 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2008 Tour de Swertia albomarginata Mono Lake, August 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025 2026 Contents Literature Cited |
When I first read the field notes of Annie Alexander and Louise Kellogg, I was fascinated by the descriptions they wrote about the places they went and the plants and animals they found there. By publishing my field notes on the Internet I hope to follow a little bit in their tradition. | |||||||
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2009 | |||||||
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Locations: Miller Canyon. Miller Canyon. |
Some of the most puzzling collections of Frasera albomarginata have been those made by Marcus E. Jones. On one in particular, the location description was "Millers Canyon, Utah." Since I knew that Jones had been to Mounds, Utah, I searched outward from Mounds until I found Miller Canyon, Carbon County, about 20 miles northwest of Price, Utah, on the the east side of Scofield Reservoir in the Wasatch Plateau. However, a visit there in June 2008, showed the collection was unlikely to have been made there. The habitat, aspens coming down to sagebrush, was not right.
Then, at CAS, I found another voucher of the same collection. The label clearly read, "Millers Canyon, south of Price." Return to the maps I found another Millers Canyon, this one near the town of Emery in Emery County. Millers Canyon is given to the canyon Muddy Creek cuts from Castle Valley through the Coal Cliffs. It is also on the western edge of the San Rafael Swell. Since, Frasera albomarginata is found at other locations on the San Rafael Swell, it seems possible that this is the location of Jones' 1907 collection. Therefore, I have moved my data point there from the location near Scofield Reservoir farther north. | |||||||
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The specimen was scanned on 14 Nov 2009. Grid is 10 x 10 to the inch. | ||||||
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Thursday, May 28, 2009 | |||||||
| … a two-day stay in Yosemite with Cheryl's sister and family. It rained every day, clouding up, and raining for an hour, then sunny, then a little more rain, etc. I guess this has been a fairly widespread event, as I heard reports of heavy rain over Sonora Pass, down in the valley, and today Monitor Pass is closed. We didn't let that stop us though. | ||||||||
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Friday, May 29, 2009 | |||||||
| One day we rented bicycles, and rode around the floor of Yosemite Valley. | ||||||||
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Saturday, May 30, 2009 | |||||||
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Locations: Vernal Fall. |
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Sunday, May 31, 2009 | |||||||
| This morning everyone was headed home, except me. I drove over Tioga Pass, and stopped at the Mobil Gas Station (the Whoa Nelli Deli!) for lunch. Got the half-pound hamburger. Ate half, and saved the other half for dinner. | ||||||||
| My plan was to visit some of the experimental plots that were established by the Mono Basin Research Group in 1976 this afternoon, and then camp on the east side of the lake tonight. However, it is raining. | ||||||||
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Locations: Negit Island. |
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| The rain was so heavy I could not see as far as the County Park a mile of so away except, of course, for the lightning striking out near Conway Ranch. | ||||||||
| The forecast here is for rain, rain, and more rain. The forecast discussion says the convection storms should be more "organized" tomorrow, so I can guess what that means -- more rain. | ||||||||
| I love the smell, though, of wet sagebrush and rabbit brush, it's kind of pungent and sweet at the same time. The line, The Desert Smells Like Rain, is the title of a book by Gary Nabhan. He wrote about the Sonoran Desert around Tucson, and said the same thing, that the smell of rain in the desert was always very pleasant and invigorating. | ||||||||
| However, I'm afraid the rain will mix with the dust that composes the roads out east of the lake, making what we commonly call mud. Last June, I did the slippin' and slidin' in the mud in central Utah. | ||||||||
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| It's one of several Inyo County campgrounds along US Hwy 395. Cheryl and I stayed at another one at Independence a few years ago. They are close to town and the highway. They have a creek running through, a few trees and picnic tables. The clientele is mixed. There are the down-and-outers who live in their old, wheezing Winnebagos, but the rent is affordable. There are the tourists that come in late in the afternoon or early evening. Some have motor homes, a few camp. There are also the motorcyclists that come into camp, set up the tent, and then head for the local bar until closing time. Closing time must be 100 AM in Line Pine, as the motorcyclists returned to camp about 115 AM, actually 1:18 AM, as indicated by AT&T digital time on my cell phone. | ||||||||
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Monday, June 1, 2009 | |||||||
| Monday was mostly a transit day, as I drove from Lone Pine, to Kramer Junction, Barstow, Valley Wells, and then Mojave National Preserve. I stopped at the Von's in Barstow (the only large market out here) for supplies. Got a sandwich for lunch, and some fried chicken for dinner, in addition to a new toothbrush, some coffee, etc. | ||||||||
| Stopped at Valley Wells for gas. It's on the I-15 at Cima Road, where I turn off for Mojave National Preserve. It's good to fill up with gas and ice at the last possible stop. Valley Wells was closed for a few years, but has been open at least the last three. Were Valley Wells closed, I would have back tracked to Baker for gas and ice, then entered the preserve by way of Kelso. | ||||||||
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| Went straight to my experimental plot at Pinto Mountain. It's about a mile walk from the road up to the plot. There were a lot of Frasera albomarginata in bloom around my plot, but none inside. There are still about 10 rosettes, from last year, a few have died since last year, but none in bloom. Wonder what that's about? Maybe my plot is is a less favorable place that the area around it, or maybe my walking in the plot is affecting the plants. | ||||||||
| Camped at Mid Hills Campgound for the night. I was the only camper when I arrived, but later more people came, and I think there were about four campsites occupied in this campground of 25 sites. | ||||||||
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Tuesday June 2, 2009 | |||||||
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Tuesday, I climbed to my experimental plot on the north face of Wild Horse Mesa. | |||||||
| On the way in I took these photos to show fire recovery, or lack thereof. | ||||||||
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At the fire recovery plot, things were mixed also. A few of the Yuccas that sprouted just after the fire in 2005 have now died. The desert verbena (Verbena goddingii) seems to be growing like an annual, here one year, over there the next year, even though the Jepson manual lists it as a perennial. The Desert Four-O'Clock (Mirabilis multiflora) is making a good comeback, and the lone buckwheat is still there. The primary successful early successional plant is Bladder Sage (Salazaria mexicana). It's doing really well, and spreading. I'm thinking it may spread through rhizomes (roots). | |||||||
| On the road back from Winkler's Cabin the camper came loose. Checking the bolts, I found the right front turnbuckle loose. It's the one that I found broken and replaced before my Idaho trip. I did an emergency tightening, and then back in camp cleaned out the camper and checked all the bolts carefully. I think it's not clear which way to turn the turnbuckles to tighten them, and they don't turn smoothly enough that it's really clear whether you are tightening them or loosening them. Add to that the orientation that changes from front to back, and side to side, and the impossibility of having a clear view of the situation when down on my knees, standing on my head, trying to adjust the d _ _ _ things. | ||||||||
| That's all the news on a Tuesday afternoon from Camp 24 of the Mid Hills Campground. | ||||||||
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Wednesday, June 3, 2009 | |||||||
| Today brought cloudy skies in the morning. I got up, packed up and left Mid Hills for the Virgin Mountains. It seems that I have lost the bag for my "Big Bubba" easy chair. I left it out last night, and this morning it was gone. It was a little breezy last night, but not windy enough to blow the bag from the back of the chair and far away. I checked around the campground, but could not find it. Or, maybe, it's in the truck somewhere, and I just cannot find it. That's possible you know. | ||||||||
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Locations: Virgin Valley. |
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Locations: Whitney Pass. |
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Locations: Yant Pit Canyon. |
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Locations: Lake Mead. |
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| Now I'm back in Mesquite, staying at the Best Western. The restaurant next door is closed, as is the big casino across the street. When I inquired about places for dinner, the desk clerk said it was a choice of fast food, or the big casino up the hill. I chose the big casino. | ||||||||
| Came back to the motel with the little casino song running through my head. | ||||||||
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Thursday, June 4, 2009 | |||||||
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| Stopped in Alamo for gas and ice, and discovered a really nice, well-equipped market with a good deli, a grill, and lots of groceries. There are also a couple of motels and restaurants in Alamo. This is probably the only place between Las Vegas and Caliente where one could stop for the night. | ||||||||
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Locations: Caliente. |
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| Anyway, passed an uneventful night at Beaver Dam State Park, as one of their two patrons, notwithstanding the brief shower sometime in the night. | ||||||||
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Friday, June 5, 2009 | |||||||
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| On the way out I saw a sign directing travelers to Crestline, a siding on the Union Pacific Railroad. I had passed through Crestline in 1998, when I was following the trail of Carl Purpus. In May 1898, he went from Enterprise, Utah, to Panaca, Nevada, by way of the road that now goes through this area. | ||||||||
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Locations: Pioche. |
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Locations: Bristol Pass. Jackrabbit. |
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Locations: Silver King Pass. |
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| My intention was to stop for the day at Adams-McGill Reservoir, home to both Frasera albomarginata and Frasera gypsophila. However, the wind was kicking up lots of dust, the rain was coming down out of the clouds, and I know there is no shelter out in the valley. | ||||||||
| So I came up north near Murry Summit, camping at the Ward Mountain Forest Service campground among Junipers and Pinyons. There is Frasera albomarginata here, so I should go assess the relative numbers of pinyons and junipers, but maybe not. | ||||||||
| I was really tempted to continue on into Ely and get a motel room for the night, as the weather was a bit stormy: cloudy, windy, about 55, and a few rain showers. However, I decided to "rough it" in the camper for the night. I confess to heating some water on the stove to wash up with, and even turning the heater on (just for a few minutes). In the process of cleaning up I found the bag for my “Big Bubba” Travel chair mixed in with the dirty clothes. | ||||||||
| Cleaned up, with a beer and a bowl of Cheez-Its at my right hand, I sat down to summarize the last two days. | ||||||||
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Saturday , June 6, 2009 | |||||||
| Spent a chilly night, Friday night, at the Ward Mountain Campground, just southwest of Ely, Nevada. Was alternately bombarded by rain showers, or with the moon in my face. Actually not that bad once I got up and added a fleece jacket to my night clothes, and put my wool socks back on Ward Mountain campground is among junipers and pinyons at 7136 ft elevation. Lots of Frasera albomarginata here. However, because of the elevation, it is still early Spring here, and none of the plants had open flowers yet. | ||||||||
| Saturday morning, I made a short loop into Ely for gas. Also looked for a place with Internet access. Was thinking mostly coffee, but the closest thing I saw was the Laundromat that claimed to have Wi-Fi. Just wasn't that motivated to watch someone else's laundry spin while I did e-mail. | ||||||||
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| Continuing on, it started to rain at Montgomery Pass and continued to rain through Benton and to Lee Vining. I stopped at Big Sand Flat (http://www.schweich.com/imagehtml/IMG_0760sm.html) and checked for flowers, but there were none, as it is still very early Spring in the Mono Lake basin. | ||||||||
| So after a lunch stop at the Mobil Gas Station, I came on home. It snowed from Lee Vining to Crane Flat, and then mere rain to Groveland. I think I'll wait a couple of weeks and then go back to the Mono Lake basin. Altho' I notice the forecast is for continued very cool weather the next couple of weeks. | ||||||||
| So what did I learn? I learned that closer to the center of its range, Frasera albomarginata grows like a weed in great numbers. I'm thinking of Beaver Dam State Park, the Bristol Range, and the Schell Creek Range. While it is limited to limestone in the eastern Mojave, it is found on other soil types in areas where it is more common. I also learned that there are predators that are adapted to the species in the center of its range, i.e., the little worms that eat the insides of the stems. So, I have to be careful in attempting to extrapolate the ecology of the species, as I have learned it in the eastern Mojave, to other areas where it is found. | ||||||||
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July 6, 2009 | |||||||
| I drove over Tioga Pass on Monday, and had lunch at the Mobil Gas Station, eating half my hamburger and saving the other half for dinner. | ||||||||
| My first task of this trip was to re-locate several of the sites defined by the Mono Basin Research Group (MBRG). These have been approximately located by rubber-sheeting the MBRG map over a map of Mono Lake, locating the midpoint of the site on the map, and then de-projecting the points to WGS1984 for uploading into my GPS receiver. | ||||||||
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Locations: MBRG P-5. |
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| The other sites around the northwest corner of the lake (P-12, P-9, P-2, and P-3) appear to me to be on private land, or behind locked gates, so I did not attempt to visit them. | ||||||||
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Locations: Dechambeau Ranch. |
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Locations: MBRG P-4. |
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| Drove east on CA Highway 167 and then northwest on Dobie Meadows Road, looking for unstabilized sand dunes, but did not find any. All the dunes I saw had vegetation growing on them. | ||||||||
| I camped -- actually, selected a place to park my truck -- in Lundy Canyon, at the Mono County Campground. Had a nice little spot in the aspen groves beside Mill Creek. Some of Mill Creek runs wild, but a good part of it is diverted at Lundy Lake to generate electricity for LA. This campground is inhabited mainly by old people with 5th-wheels and RVs. Very few people were out. In fact, I saw my neighbor, Bob of “Bob & Bev” according to the sign on their 5th-wheel, only through their dining room window. | ||||||||
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July 7, 2009 | |||||||
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Locations: Cedar Hill. |
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"There is a remarkable stand of Utah juniper east of Mono Lake near the Nevada border. The stand has very little single leaf pinyon, and the Utah juniper trees are very large and have the appearance of very old trees. The stand is growing on wind-eroded volcanic tephra sand with little understory herbaceous vegetation, which may contribute to making the location a fire safe site (Barbour, et al., 2007)." | ||||||
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| On Adobe Valley Road east of Mono Lake, there were a few plants to collect; one here and one over there. There was no one stop with a lot of different species of plants to collect. | ||||||||
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In Mono Valley, 20 meters west of and above Dobie Meadows Road, 1.7 mi (2.7 km) northwest of Alameda Well. In stabilized dune or beach strand. (38.1212°, -118.8531°, WGS 1984.) Determination tentative. Immature material. Collection discarded. | ||||||
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A little further south on Dobie Meadows Road | |||||||
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| Also along the road was an Astragalus. This was the lowest elevation at which I saw this plant. It was much more numerous further south at higher elevation. | ||||||||
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Locations: Deep Wells. |
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Adobe Hills Spillway, Mono County, California. Along the side of Dobie Meadows Road, just below the Adobe Hills Spillway, 32 km by air east northeast of Lee Vining, California, 16.6 miles east on CA Highway 167 from US Highway 395, then 7.9 miles southeast on Dobie Meadows Road. 38.0606°N, 118.7754°W. WGS 1984. Elev. 2143 m. Coll. No. 579, 7 Jul 2009, characters observed: Perennial (?), to 50 cm.; Hairs 0; Glands 0; Leaves, at least some cauline, basal, petioles unknown (should be ciliate), cauline, not basally lobed or clasping, all petioled, petiole ≤20 mm., blade, ovoid, largest 70 mm. × 40 mm. wide, reduced above, few dentate; Inflorescence, 7-12 cm., single spike per stem, Pedicel upcurved; Flowers, radial, bisexual, all parts spreading; Petals, white, oblanceolate (not linear), 9 mm.; Stamens 6, ±equal in length; Anthers curled >360°; Fruit, (immature) stalk 1.5 mm. + body 12 mm. + style 0.3 mm., erect (not appressed). | ||||||
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Adobe Hills Spillway, Mono County, California. Along the side of Dobie Meadows Road, just below the Adobe Hills Spillway of Pleistocene Lake Mono. 38.0605°N, 118.7754°W. WGS 1984. Elev. 2143 m. | ||||||
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Adobe Hills Spillway, Mono County, California. Along side of Dobie Meadows Road, just below the Adobe Hills Spillway, 32.8 km ENE of Lee Vining, California. 38.0605°N, 118.7754°W. WGS 1984. Elev. 2143 m. | ||||||
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Locations: Adobe Hills Spillway. |
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Locations: Sagehen Meadow Campground. |
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Locations: Big Sand Flat. |
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Locations: Mono Mills. |
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| Took a detour to East Craters Sand Flat, by way of 01S07, and then turning north west on 01N24. | ||||||||
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I repeatedly key this one out at P. hastata hastata, but everyone else seems to collect P. hastata compacta in the Mono Lake basin. | |||||||
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East Craters Sand Flat, Mono County, California. at the north end of East Craters Sand Flat along Forest Road 1S24, 2.7 mi (4.4 km) southwest of Mono Mills 37.853°N, 118.9869°W. WGS 1984. Elev. 2421 m.
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Locations: Panum Crater. |
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July 8, 2009 | |||||||
| On the web sites of geology field trips, there is often a stop at some very folded lake sediments. The folks at the Forest Service Info Center had no idea where they might be but were sure the Mono Lake Committee would know. | ||||||||
| They didn't know either, but we settled on me looking around Wilson Creek. | ||||||||
| The locked gate on the road to Wilson Creek presented a little problem. So as I was driving around trying to find an easy way to hike to Wilson Creek, I saw the outcrop right on Cemetery Road, just above Mill Creek, where I have driven by maybe a dozen times, and didn't recognize the outcrop. | ||||||||
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| Black Point is a volcano that erupted under the water of Mono Lake when the lake was higher. Now, it is one of the few underwater volcanoes that are fully exposed, so it is also a destination for many geology field trips. | ||||||||
| On top of Black Point is a large fissure, about 18 inches wide and 20-30 feet deep, and hundreds of feet long. You can go inside the fissure and look at the layers of volcanic ash. Well, that sounded interesting and it truly was interesting to see ... except for the mile-long 400 foot climb in the loose ash the makes up Black Point. The climb was about an hour, on the black sand, in the sun, weaving around the sagebrush. There is always a trade-off to make between wearing shorts for coolness, or long stiff jeans to protect your legs from the brush. I opted for the shorts and will live with the decorative marks on my legs for a few days. | ||||||||
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Locations: Black Point. |
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Locations: Black Point. |
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| To the west is Lundy Canyon and Copper Mountain. | ||||||||
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Locations: Negit Island. |
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On the way back down Black Point, I startled a couple of jackrabbits, one of which posed for me. As long as it could see me, it sat still. But as soon as I was hidden from view by some sagebrush, it ran away. | |||||||
| Anyway, for my recommendation, the Fissure should definitely be on your list of 10,000 things you plan to do before you die, but probably somewhere near the bottom. | ||||||||
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| Lastly on the beach of Mono Lake at Black Point, I also found Torrey's Blazing-Star (Mentzelia torreyi). There are other Blazing-Stars in the Mono Lake basin, including the very large Smooth-Stem Blazing Star (Mentzelia laevicaulis) with its large bright yellow flowers. However, in the Mono Lake basin, the little Torrey's Blazing Star is only found on the old beaches near Black Point. | ||||||||
| Came home through Yosemite, stopping at May Lake for lunch. | ||||||||
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14 September 2009 | |||||||
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Locations: Yachats. |
Tuesday, 15 September 2009 | |||||||
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17 September 2009 | |||||||
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18 September 2009
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Locations: Pilot Spring. |
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Now, though, I am curious about the other unique collection from Pilot Spring; that of Sanicula graveolens. This is the only collection of S. graveolens from Mono County. I would like to have a look at the specimen at UCR (University of California Riverside) to verify that determination. | ||||||
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Locations: Lobo Point. |
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Date and time this article was prepared: 4/24/2026 5:07:54 PM |
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